Click HERE for photos of my 1/10 scale RC Europa.
It's based on a Tamiya F201 4WD chassis.

And HERE to see my Caterham 7 model. It was
a blast to build. I guess I have a thing for small cars.

And while we're at it, HERE for my pre-assembled
 Sunstar VW Bus.

thlump1.jpg The Lump. Stock S2 engine. Renault R16 factory modified to Lotus specs.
                 1565cc 4 cylinder. 10.25/1 compression ratio. Lotus spec cam and
                  ignition timing. I swapped the two barrel Solex for a similar Weber 28/36DCD carb.
                  Four speed transaxle. 90 bhp on a good day. Power to weight ratio about 14/1.

                  Exceptionally reliable. Still running strong with nearly 100,000 miles on the clock!

I needed to replace one coolant hose. Ended up replacing all the hoses and pulling the radiator for repair.
rad2 rad3 rad4

rad5  rad1

Latest upgrades include homemade sun visors, after market motorcycle third brake light and better looking seat covers. Visor frames are now sandwiched between Naugahyde covered ABS sheet. Brake light is by Knight Riderz for $25. Existing wiring harness had unused female connectors for ground and power! No need to hack the harness.

visor1  blight  wires

I finally got around to replacing the 40+ year old rear brake hoses. As usual, having the right tool made the job easy. In this case, a $20 Snap-On 9/16" crowsfoot flare nut wrench made all the difference. And of course plenty of penetrating liquid.

brhose  tools
I highly recommend Speed Bleeders.
They make brake bleeding a simple one person job.
I used the SB3824L on the front and
SB3824HD on the rear.

Fuse Box Cover
I've seen some beautifully restored Europas. One thing that always bugs me is the unsightly (but Factory correct)
exposed fuse box. After finishing my budget interior project, I realized what an eyesore the fuse box (and sundry spaghetti) was. As you can see, a little carpeting glued to an ABS plastic backing makes all the difference.

  fb1  fb2
                           Before                                                            After
The tab on the cover is wedged between the bottom of the heater core and the body. Now the heater core is the eyesore. Someday I'll pull it and have it flushed and painted. It's always something (and I wouldn't have it any other way).


Clutch Pedal Effort
The clutch pedal effort on my S2 has always seemed a bit high, compared the effort associated with the other controls, steering, brake, gas and shifting. It doesn't affect the driving experience much, but I'm always trying to make improvements.
After racking my brain for ways to modify the cable system back at the clutch, I ended up (for now) just putting an extension on the pedal itself. It makes a bit of a difference. But looking for a better non-hydraulic solution.

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